Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG "Il Puro" 2019 - Castello di Volpaia

A cura di Mario Busso e Alessandro Scorsone

Sixty-year-old plants, a wonderful enological project that reaches in this label one of its highest expressions. Fresh nose opening with aromas of raspberries and currants, a hint of pepper leaf; then, extraordinarily easy to drink: juicy, ample with a beautiful persistence.

Radda in Chianti. CertiUed organic. They grow 25 clones of Sangiovese, which date from 60 years ago, in this small Casanova vineyard at 450 m. Aged for 18 months in new Allier oak. Mid garnet. Densely savoury, 'agricultural' Sangiovese notes on the nose and just the right amount of fruit concentration (not skinny but not forced). Excellent acidity and very true to the variety. Bone-dry Mnish. Quintessential food wine. Not Uashy. Well named. Drink 2019 – 2026

The 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Casanova Il Puro is a wine for the cellar. Bright acids and beams of tannin shape this powerful, classically austere Gran Selezione from Volpaia. Lavender, spice, menthol, licorice and cloves start to emerge with some coaxing, but the 2016 is very clearly not ready to show all its cards just yet. Even so, this is a fine edition of the Puro. I hope to taste it again in another decade or so.

A rich, layered red that shows the strength of the vintage, offering blackberry, black-olive and stone aromas and flavors. It’s full-bodied, chewy and pretty. From organically grown grapes. Approachable now, but better in 2022.

3 stelle oro (per i vini sopra 94 punti)

‘Puro’ refers not just to the fact that this is made from 100% Sangiovese, but also that the vines represent 25 clones native to the area of Volpaia. They are grown in a small plot of the estate’s south-facing Casanova vineyard. Aged in 100% new Frenchbarriques, this leads with freshly ground coffee and sandalwood then reveals liquorice, lavender and red cherry. The palate is sophisticated and smooth with fine, svelte tannins and a racy core. Organic. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 14%